Thursday, March 26, 2009

Downeast Maine Black Bear Study













































































































































Dear All,


















Wow, just days back from the sunny Caribbean and I was off on another great adventure at home in Maine. Up at 5:30 am and met at 6:30 am at Winterberry Cottage on Rte. #9, my friend Jeff Lyons and I were off to visit a mother bear and bear cubs hibernating in a den. We were invited by Randy Cross, the guru of black bears, who has been studying bears for 27 years in Maine with Maine Inland Fisheries and Wildlife following our adventure this past spring checking snares for bears to tag and collar for tracking. This past May we visited 29 snares which biologists and volunteers check every 12 hours and didnt see even one bear. We wrote a few articles that were published in our local papers so Randy invited us again this winter assuring us we would see a bear or two or three this winter!


































We met Vicki, president of Safari International, Maine Chapter, Randy and his staff and volunteers at the Airline Snack Bar had our coffee and off we went in Vicki's spiffy Subaru. Probably 12 miles on a dirt road off Rte. 9 toward Station Road then another 12 miles north on Station road heading east. We arrived geared up the sleds (snow mobiles) and off we went for a few miles into the woods. Then everyone put on their snowshoes and the team held the antennae to track the radio signal from the female bear's collar. (They tag male and female bears' ears and then collar the females with a radio transmitter but not the males)


































Vicki, Jeff and I stayed back so that there wouldn't be too many people startling the bears. They headed in with a pole and a tranquilizing dart to hone in on the female and then put her to sleep. We headed in after them about 30 minutes later through the brush but really just a few hundred feet from where we parked the sleds. The bears have been hibernating now for about 5 months and the females that are old enough have cubs. Bears usually have their first litter at 5 or 6 years old OR actually when their body weight is enough that they are ready. (I forget the term in est...)


































We arrived and the female bear, a 124lb female, 6 years old, 2nd litter of cubs was fast asleep on a tarp just outside the den which was a small hole under a fallen tree covered in snow. Randy passed us two beautiful baby bear cubs. They were about 4.5 lbs each and only 9 weeks old! Absolutely THE most adorable little bundles of fur you have ever seen. We each got to hold them and have our photos taken with them while the team weighed mama bear, baby bears, tagged baby bear ears, checked collar on mama bear and overall health of bears and then measured mama bear. They measured her four ways, chest, neck, back length and zoological length which is the length from her nose to her tail if she were standing outstretched. They also put a tattoo in mama bear's mouth inside her upper lip incase her ear tags or collar go missing.


































The team has checked 81 out of 91 dens since early January. Some females are solo young females not given birth yet and they check their dens first then they check the older females with cubs. We got to visit the 81st den! The team put mama bear back in her den with her newly tagged bear cubs and covered the den with bows and off we went.


































Why study bears? Well wildlife management is important for many reasons, to know the bears, track the health and development of bears, impact of bears/humans and for hunting purposes. The more we know about bears and other wildlife the more we can protect and manage wildlife. This program is underfunded. Randy has VOLUNTEERS and is not able to pay people for their work which is too bad. It is amazing through this study what the researchers are learning about bears ---what they eat, how they survive and how humans and bears can coexist sustainably.










































































































Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Shopping in Santa Domingo

Dear All,
Well we are safely back in PR and Mom and I have a rental car. Yay. I have been travelling by gua gua and small buses for a month now so I am tickled to be driving a car again! Mom was in Puerto Rico in the early 1960s. She did her Peace Corps training here in the mountains. We are trying to track down one of her very good friends that she served with in Ecuador who is from here in Puerto Rico.

While we were in Santa Domingo we stayed with Jan and Felipe again. they have wonderful kids, Dally (pronounced Dajee) and Louis Felipe and two dogs. Chiquita and Trouble. We spent two days trying to buy our return ferrt ticket for Mom. It cost me $189.00 for two ways with a chair seat and it cost Mom $140 for a one way ticket. It was so hard to find out WHERE to buy the ticket. The office at the port doesnt sell them on two different days that I went there. Entering DR was an absolute nightmare with about 20 checkpoints. Returning to PR was much much easier. Amazing!

Mom and I bought 3 seat covers used in gua guas or for car seats. Used tough plastic burlap type of bags (similar material used for a tarp) and then fabric is woven through it in patterns or solid colors, like a shag rug basically. Very cool and $4.50 right next to the road heading from Bonao to Santa Domingo. We (I) bought cigars, Brugal rum, guava dulce (sweets) and jam, coffee chocolate, guabanana juice mix, oregano, and some larimar (blue stone only mined in Dominican Republic). Quite a shopping extravaganza and now my pack is loaded. I was so hoping to get my fingernails painted again all fancy on my way out but that didnt happen. I did however find the fingernail polish with a long thin brush so I could paint designs on them myself. We will see how that goes. I will start practicing now so I can paint the girls fingernails in Tess's adventure rec class.

Take care and ............7 days left on my vacation. I am ready for HOME, SNOW, and to see EVERYONE! xx, Georgie

Monday, March 2, 2009

The Cock Fight(s) Pelea da Gallos

Finally, yesterday, I went to a REAL cock fight in Bonao where Jan grew up in the middle of the country. What an experience. Mom and Jan stayed and talked with good friends of Jan´s in Bonao. Lenny, Jan´s brother in law took me. It was his first time to attend as well. He is 36 and has never been interested in attending but accompanied me on this experiential journey. Also three young ladies, daughter of Jan´s friend, Ariella and her two friends, Annie and Kayla joined us too. We could watch from outside the caged area for 20 pesos or 75 cents but...I splurged and bought ringside seats for 1250.00 pesos or $40USD for the 5 of us. I am sure I paid more because I was a gringa and no one knew the real prices but this happens every day to me in different situations.

The little arena with cages are next to the road. There were many motorconchos (small motorcycles) and lots of fancy SUVs there. This type of sport is illegal in the US and for years the USA has tried to ban it from Puerto Rico but it is still much alive in Puerto Rico as well. We arrived early so we had seats just two rows back from the inner circle. Picture a boxing ring on the ground with a padded mat around the perimeter that the cocks cannot really jump over easily to run away. The birds are plucked from the waist down and their crown is clipped as well. The birds are weighed in burlap bags on a scale hanging over the ring. An announcer and a few helpers put spurs on the feet of the birds, sharp .75 inch sharp little knives actually. The betting is insane and lots of money, 1000 and 2000 or $30 and $60 bills are rolled up and tossed to this one and that one. There is alot of hype naming the birds by color, rosa (red), blanco (white), negro (black) and asking for bets very loudly screaming shouting yelling from everywhere. The first fight we saw the birds were not really interested in each other but the second one was intense. Well as intense as two birds pecking at each other can be. Kicking each other madly and flapping their wings.

As close as we were to the ring it was hard to see the injuries each bird was causing the other. My understanding is that they fight for 15 minutes maximum or until one cock falls down or until the death. I am not exactly sure how it works but it was clear during the second fight that the blanco one was going to win and the fight continued becuase the black cock did not fall down. Once the black cock did fall it was practically dead and while the owner groomed it before it was handed over to be put in the ring, he picked it up like a dead fish and hauled it out of the ring. Not sure if the cocks are immediately killed after that much brutal suffering or if it is just tossed aside to die on it´s own before becoming someone´s dinner.

The girls were more interested in being seen in the inner circle than in the fight. Fair enough. We watched three of them. The men cheer and snort and count the number of times each cock pecks or pulls feathers or meat off the other cock. And they count the number of times each cock kicks each other. It can be quite a fight. Sadly the eyes are also often pecked out of the other bird. It is disturbing to witness.

Do I support this as a sport? No. Was I curious? Absolutely. Lenny translated for me to tell the girls that this was illegal in our country. He translated that I do not support the torture of animals, that my boyfriend is a veterinarian and would probably be a little upset with me that I attended such an event. I did tell them I felt badly for the cocks but I wanted to attend because it is an aincredibly strong tradition and custom of the DR men and so I did.

Honestly I understand the power of testosterone with sports events and competition but watching two cocks fight just doesnt seem to have the same effect as a wrestling match or a boxing match between two men. I rather see two grown men who can make their own decisions and have a mind fight than two animals trained to hurt each other. So it was good for me to witness to help me understand betting, competition, and witness the desensitization of humans for animals.

I am desensitized when I walk by starving yes STARVING dogs and cats or maybe sick from mange or fleas or worms who knows. I wish Bill were with me and he could easily euthanize (sp?) each one so it would peacefully slip away. I wish I had the nerve to kill them quickly myself but I do not. I know that traveling to developing countries on a yearly basis has contributed to my desensitization. It doesnt mean that I dont feel bad for them I do. I used to cry and get sick and now I feel badly but I dont get as emotional about it as I used to. Same when walking by people who cannot stand and beg for money or people with disfigured facial features that would be whisked into plastic surgery in the USA.

This is an expensive and extensive sport for men of this country. Many own lots of cocks and have trainers and take them all over the island to fight. Fights are different days in different towns and usually start at 2pm DR time so...245pm until like 7pm. You can buy beer and soda and snacks and I believe out of a few hundred people there were 4 women in our party and I saw only one other woman.

Ok.........oh......I didnt take any photos and havent for many weeks because my camera broke frozen open.

Have a good day! Georgie

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Check points and Robert and Heiki and life bliss

Well, we finally left Pederneles and on the way out our bus was stopped probably a dozen times at checkpoints. Sometimes we had to all get off and sometimes police would get on and sniff around. They were looking for Haitians and drugs. At the first check a police showed his power over of course by asking for my passport in front of everyone. Stupid me had it tucked away in my bra with all my other goods so... then the people on the bus warned me, "They are watching you". So lesson learned to keep passport separate and accessible..........but that was the only time.

After several checks a man neatly dressed with a backpack who had shown his passport numerous times was escorted off the bus. He looked Haitian. His bus money was returned to him. Who knows what happened to him. The unemployment rate in DR is 45%. The unemployment rate in Haiti is 75% or higher. So....DR is better if you can make it here, right?

Mom met a very nice two couples on the way out of Bahia de Las Aguilas. We stopped to see them in El Arroyo. What a beautiful beautiful spot. Oh my goodness. Robert and Heiki and their friends were such fun and we communicated somehow in Spanish, English and German and laughed and chatted. I smoked a huge DR vanilla flavored cigar that cost me 45 cents on their lovely deck. Wow what bliss with a big cold beer like I did on a porch with Mom in Cuba. Great food, lots of beer. Mom had sancocho (a stew with vegetables, yucca, potato, onion many meats, YUM) cooked by their cook. We did a washing in a semi automatic washer. You have to move the wash, then rinse, then move to the spinner. quite a process but much easier than by hand on a washboard when I was in South Africa. The view was spectacular. We were right near the Larimar mine so I got a good deal (or so I think) on two pieces of Larimar rock (only mined here). Then from Barahona we took a bus to Santa Domingo then a bus to La Romana and then a guagua to Bayahibe to go out for the BEST fish supper and an overnite with Mom there.

Ok more.........not sure when? Miss you and as much as I love to travel and see the world I love even more returning home to my family, friends, farm. I really really do. I hope that I can keep my home safe and healthy for as long as I am alive because I visit so many places that are sadly getting riddled with garbage, people and destroyed slowly but surely from PEOPLE.

Please do your best to NOT use styrofoam. Please. It does NOT biodegrade. EVER. EVER.
x, G

Samana Peninsula and Bay and North Atlantic Humpback breeeding and nursery

Wow, what a trip Mom and I are having. We are now in Bonao which is NOT in Lonely Planet and staying at www.ranchowendy.com which is a gem. I have several entries for a blog that I may never get to but here are some ideas.
The Pig and the Palm tree in Boca de Yuma
Mauro, best Italian cook in the DR and he taught me his special pasta sauce recipe OMG!
Viscape, virtual blog travel to promote folks to purchase realestate abroad, hmm...not sure how I feel about this
Cruise ships PLOGGING Samana Bay........
Pets in Pain. One could go around DR euthanizing very miserable dogs and cats
Exploitation of nature, resources, people.
Haitians fleeing from Haiti
DRUG TRAFFICKING

the list goes on..........
We met up with Jan and Lenny, my DR buddies from Santa Domingo yesterday. Mom and I were in Las Galeras on the eastern tip of the Samana Peninsula for three nights. We soaked up lots of sun on some very sweet beaches. At one point on the beach there were men fishing with small nets in their underwear catching sardines, a man also in his underwear washing down his horse in the water and many people frolicking as well. What a combination of tourists and locals all enjoying the beach. This beach had little sandbars with eel grass. I thought of my friend Kate when we travelled to Tulum Mexico years ago before the tourists arrived. We went skinny dipping together there and poor Kate was totally spooked by the seaweed that was floating in clusters. She would have freaked out at this beach but it was beautiful. The sun set behind layers of mountains perfectly stacked behind each other with giant coconut palms hanging out over the sandy beach in silouette with the setting sun. Is my camera broken? yes but we met a few folks from Israel and CA and hopefully they will send us a photo of this gorgeous beach simply called Playita (little beach).
The day before we went North Atlantic Humpback whale watching in Samana Bay with a Canandian woman who has been here for 20 years. Wow probably one of the best tours Ive been on in years. Very thorough, eco conscious, people friendly and worth it. We stayed a very safe distance from the whales and a young male breeched (leaped fully out of the water) a dozen times. It was amazing. There are an estimated 10-12,000 and they come down from Oh Canada and our lovely Bay of Fundy and off Boston to flirt, frolick and mate and nurse their young in Samana Bay. They do not eat for I think it is 4 months while they are there. Just play.

In 2004 they started bringing cruise ships so now 2-3000 people get off a boat in Samana two times a week during WHALE season..... can you believe this. The cruise ships do not anchor but hover using gps and running their engines for 3-5 months 2x a week, 4-6 ships per week. What a strain on the envt and everything else AND once they are here you will never get rid of them.

I can honestly say I do not like the cruise ship industry at all. I think it is an insane idea for Eastport. Be careful what you wish for.......luckily our sweet Downeast Maine has a SHORT season.
Now I am beginning to question ecotourism.........Im so conflicted. Basically humans do so much wrong even though we think we are doing good but whatever we do do is generally wrong. Eeeish...as we say in South Africa.
I am ready to come home. Mom and I are travelling really well together. We went thourgh our rough patches and settled into healthy traveling.
My fingernails are as long as they have ever been. For 80 pesos or $2.00 I can get my fingernails and toenails painted in lovely matching colors and it looks awesome. No photos though except the first one I put up.

Take care everyone. xx, G